Out of the major cities of Japan which includes Tokyo, Nagoya, Osaka, Kyoto, Sapporo, and Fukuoka, Fukuoka is the hub of our southern island Kyushu and is a smart city that has an international airport just 10 minute train ride away from the city center.
For a big foodie like me, local food is very important when I visit a city. After living in Hokkaido which is said to be the food capital of Japan, and the kitchen of Tokyo Tsukiji and Ginza area, I learned Fukuoka is my favorite place for good food.
I've just started discovering Fukuoka, but I want to share with you what I love about it so far.
Smart and compact City
When it comes to how smart the city is, Fukuoka is probably my favorite city in the world right now.
I'm always amazed how close the airport is to the city center, just 2 subway stations apart.
Fukuoka Airport is still compact and not as big as Narita or Kansai, the two biggest airports of Japan, nor is as busy like Chitose in Sapporo.
The city center, Hakata has Shinkansen Bullet Trains that connect to the major cities of Japan like Osaka, Nagoya, Mishima (where Mt. Fuji is), Tokyo, Sendai, all the way to Hakodate in Hokkaido. （It will connect to Niseko, and Sapporo by 2040.)
Hakata is the hub station to go to travel destinations in Kyushu like：
- Nagasaki for a blend of Christianity, fabulous seafood, and ocean scenary,
- Karatsu (where I am) for Bushido culture understanding and Karatsu ware
- Saga for Ureshino Tea and smaller traditional onsens
- Oita for bigger onsen facilities and amazing seafood
- Kumamoto for Mt. Aso landscape and one of Japan's most famous mascot, Kumamon
- Miyazaki for its warm beach, charcoal grilled chicken and fruits, and Kagoshima for Sakurajima Kurobuta pork and islands like Yakushima and Amami Oshima.
Sounds good doesn't it. These places are all accessible via train or bus from Hakata.
Not only that, Hakata has a ferry terminal within the city center which can take you to Tsushima and Iki Island which has amazing food and nature, and it's also connected to South Korea by ferry.
It would be nice to try taking a ferry ride to Busan from Hakata one of these days.
The Food is one of the best in Japan in Fukuoka
My father has lived in Sapporo for more than 20 years, and I've lived near Tsukiji and Ginza area where the best food comes from across Japan, but my favorite kitchen of Japan is probably Fukuoka.
Fukuoka City Central Wholesale Market 福岡中央卸売市場 is the hub of the best food from Kyushu. In terms of seafood, Kyushu has a number of points where warm and cold currents meet, thus resulting in the seafood being rich in nutrients.
Ports are built close to city centers, so more fishes are kept live especially in Saga and Oita Prefecture, the other major provinces where fish is famous.
The pro of Tokyo is that the best food comes from across Japan. But the con? The ingredients lose its freshness while it's shipped, and shipping cost rise.
So think about it for a second. When the best ingredients are getting transported to Tokyo, the cost is rising. And the freshness is on the decline.
Then why not have fresh food, more affordable in Fukuoka?
Where do the best live fishes go? To Tokyo Tsukiji (Toyosu Market) and Fukuoka.
The best seafood generally would go to Toyosu where there are people willing to pay the price for it, but shipping cost will be very high. The same fish will cost 3-4 times in Tokyo than in Fukuoka, when it's obviously fresher in Fukuoka.
Fukuoka is a very good place to visit, if you are keen on seafood like live fish sashimi or sushi.
The Amazing Quality of sushi and seafood
Because the ports are closer to city centers in Kyushu, fishes are kept in good conditions.
More are kept live while cost to do it is much lower than Tokyo, to eat it is much more value.
That's why in Kyushu restaurants serve ikezukuri or cooked sashimi alive.
You can enjoy the tenderness with thicker, sweeter soy sauce which matches very well.
Sushi restaurants will age the fishes to enhance the flavors, which will have more umami but without the distinct texture it has when cooked alive.
Both have their benefits. I encourage you to try both.
For more food guide in Fukuoka, click
here.
The Yatai Culture
I think in Kyushu it's uniqueness in terms of food is the Yatai food stall culture.
Japan used to have a lot but it has transformed to restaurants, while Hakata still has this yatai street food culture left in the city centers.
People are very friendly and you won't really have difficulty blending in, compared to other areas of Japan.
So just try hopping into one of the yatais and try their "Osusume" オススメ or recommendations.
Go for super onsen facility at Teriha Spa Resort!
It has numerous public baths and saunas (1000~1500JPY depending on weekdays to public holidays) I loved their electric bath outside, it resembles a massage chair while you bathe, and the salt and herb sauna.
There is a restaurant available that serves most local food of Fukuoka, with pc, lounge, gym, and arcade.
It's open til 2am, but you can stay overnight at their lounge for additional fee (about 3000JPY depending on week/public holiday) or their hotel (20~30,000JPY depending on week/ public holidays).
Free shuttle bus available from Tenjin, the shopping district of Hakata. (The ride is about 30 minutes)
Itoshima
The good thing about Hakata is the fusion of the city and nature all very compact to each other. Hop on their subway and it will take you to Itoshima where people enjoy the ocean vibe in cafes and trendy restaurants, photogenic spots, and even surfing.
I found Kyushu University, one of the best universities in Kyushu and Japan, in Itoshima... I envy the students that they could study in that kind of environment.
You can take a look at
this website for more information on what you can do in Fukuoka.
Of Course, the city stuff is here, too.
From fancy cafes to local delicacies, shopping for fashion and souvenirs, it's all in central Fukuoka.
I personally go to Yodobashi right in front of the JR Hakata Station to buy my necessities.
Where I recommend staying near JR Hakata Station
Hakata Station has all you basically need from Fukuoka all packed in and around JR Hakata Station.
I seldom need to stay at a hotel in Fukuoka, but I like
Richmond Hotel, as I always am stress free staying there.
It's a hotel chain from Japan but rooms are more spacey and clean, in a prime location.
I always love staying in JR Hotels as it's either connected or next to the station, and the service is above par.
On your first and last day, staying at Hakata Station might be very convenient.
But if you move just 3 train stops to Tenjin where the biggest shopping district is, here is organized but also chaotic city vibe.
Everything that you might be going to in the central Hakata area including Nakasu area, The Fukuoka Fish Market to Ohori Park is walkable (about 30 minutes) from Tenjin area, too.
Next to Nishitetsu Grand Hotel is
The Ritz Carlton Fukuoka, so if you want luxury then here is one right in the center of everything in Fukuoka.
Fukuoka is a very good hub and the gateway to the rest of the destinations of Kyushu. I will gather information and share where you can go from Fukuoka, soon.
*So far, I can tell you a little bit about where I settled, Karatsu. It's just an hour drive away from Fukuoka.
A little further Karatsu for castle + ocean and pottery
A little further west of Itoshima is Karatsu, a historical and gourmet city where I settled.
It's just an hour drive or 1.5 hour train ride to Karatsu, and you can enjoy a Bushido culture still left here.
The Karatsu Castle is just next to the ocean, and the walls and gates are still left blended into harmony with the current city.
Karatsuyaki or Karatsu ware is also a traditional ceramics that plays an important role in Japanese food culture along with Imari and Arita ware all from the same Saga Prefecture.
There are about 70 potters scattered within Karatsu city, some walkable from Karatsu Station, so visiting them or Ichibankan which is the biggest gallery that keeps a selection of the favorites of the ceramics from the region is interesting.
Come see me in Choko Bar just in front of Karatsu Station
I work as a sake bartender at Choko Bar, a bar/cafe where you can try local sake and light meals with Karatsu dishes and cups.
I'm currently in charge of Thursdays, on Friday it will be someone who used to run a jaz kissaten cafe in Sapporo, and on weekends and public holidays a very nice and gourmet lady from Kitakyushu.
The owner wants me to make it a place for international travelers to know more about Karatsu, and I'll do my best to connect you with the local regulars that know a lot about this small but very interesting Bushido and foodie town!
Come join me on the journey at Karatsu.
I moved into Karatsu on March, 2025 from the variety of fish it has.
But I want to try to work with the local businesses and the government to show you hints of the samurai town.
It has great traditional content that is interesting, but it's still hidden.
It will be my pleasure to show you the charms of the samurai city as an experience that we all can learn from to better our lives.
Where to stay in Karatsu:
Where to eat in Karatsu:
What to do in Karatsu:
Thanks for Reading!
Follow me on my journey discovering the best fish dishes of Japan. I will open a fish laboratory in my akiya abandoned house I'm going to live soon.
I would love to connect with people interested in fishes, cooking, and Japanese food. Share me your interests, and let's hang out!
This will be my long game, and I look forward to sharing what happens.
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